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November 14, 2008

The Darjeeling Unlimited

How to bike from the backwaters of Kerala to the Bay of Bengal without getting bonked.

Far from the hordes that swarm the Taj Mahal, there’s a new way to catch a glimpse of Old India. Pedalers Pub & Grille — the Asia cycling specialists with the purposefully nutty name — embark on an inaugural journey, November 24, across the unsullied southern tip of the subcontinent. From temple-studded Tamil Nadu to the watery labyrinths of Kerala, the 12-day Royal Odyssey tour covers an epic 439 miles. But fear not for biker’s bum — they’ll be plenty of pit stops along the way, including the Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary (home to Project Tiger, aimed at rejuvenating the species), and the World-Heritage Shore Temple on the Bay of Bengal.

The trip immerses travelers in local life, like lunching with tea harvesters in the Munnar hills (Kerala’s lush plantation region, pictured, that rivals Darjeeling). You’ll even spend a night sailing the backwaters of the west-coast state in a thatch-roofed houseboat. But don’t picture a rickety rig — this is a floating hotel artfully fashioned from bamboo and wood. Of course, you’ll experience more traditional accommodations, too. In the French Colonial city of Pondicherry — whose formerly segregated halves are still called Ville Blanche (white town) and Ville Noire (black town) — you’ll stay at Le Dupliex, a former mayoral villa reborn as the city’s first design hotel. After pedaling to Pondy’s markets and renowned ashram, you’ll be happy to know that when you’re bonked, Le Dupliex has a chic cocktail lounge for rejuvenating with a little liquid therapy.


read more: 02. Sleep | boutique | historic | unusual | 09. Active | cycling

 

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